San Miguel del Monte: on Gauchos and Pejerreyes

Certainly, San Miguel del Monte is a rural town from every point of view: it is reminiscent of the old estancia and gaucho days of glory. The narrow streets, the non-chamfered corners and the huge houses at the ancient urban shell are witnesses of part of the history of livestock owners in the pampas and the then caudillo and large rural livestock ranch owner don Juan Manuel de Rosas.


Of Estancias and Caudillos

According to history, the town flourished sheltered by a kind of small strongholds built for defense against Indian raids.

Today, the large rural livestock ranches, then protected from the Indians by the federalists marked by their red outfit, became one of the new tourist attractions combining rural life, contact with nature and all the amenities of new hotel complexes attracting the visitors to this city.

At their traditional estancias, visitors may enjoy asado, horseback riding, hiking, hunting, farm tasks and lodge at first-class rooms decorated with exquisite furniture and works of art defined by the XIX-century style.

The residence then owned by Juan Manuel de Rosas, originally located at estancia Los Cerrillos, is a very well-preserved typical ranch of the pampas, open all year round.

Upon visiting its rooms, guests may observe belongings and portraits of this Argentinian caudillo. As well, the red uniforms worn by “los colorados del Monte” (the red members of the woodlands), the army created by Rosas himself to fight the Indians, are exhibited there.


Of Lagoons and Pejerreyes

The 720 hectares occupied by the Monte Lagoon offer a wide variety of activities, such as swimming, rowing, canoeing, windsurfing, yachting and water skiing.

Along its coast, outlined by shady trees, we spotted some cottages, hotels, restaurants, recreational complexes and camping sites with all the facilities necessary to spend a pleasant day on the shores of the lagoon.

Every year a crowd comes in pursuit of the pejerrey treasure hidden in the waters of Monte.

An employee of the Fishing Club told us that as this species is produced by fish farming, its population remains steady. As we got on board the boat, he gave us a piece of advice: “the best matungos (as silverside are commonly called by the locals) are caught in the reed areas”.

Connected to the Monte Lagoon by a creek, Las Perdices Lagoon is a sanctuary for enthusiastic anglers. In its almost unspoiled waters with luxurious vegetation, it is usual to see fishermen getting deep into reed banks on small canoes eager to capture specimens of pejerrey, dentudos and aggressive dogfish.

Only 100 km from Buenos Aires, this fantastic rural town knows how to offer an excellent day perfectly combining the history of the small strongholds, its Indians raids, the gauchos, and the Indians with sport fishing. Everything is almost at arm’s length.