Bohemia at the Arts Market

Ten blocks away from Córdoba urban historical shell, we got deep into the Bohemian neighborhood called Güemes to visit Paseo de las Artes (the Arts market). The corner of Montevideo and Belgrano Streets was appropriate to start a tour where creativity and various proposals are always at hand.

The neighborhood is somewhat nostalgic because its origins date back to the first decade of the twentieth century, when a general store was settled down there by a Spanish immigrant. This venue became the gathering point for customers and singers.

The wit and desire to make progress of the newly-arrived made them set up different kinds of stores in an area well-known for being easily flooded and the poverty of its denizens. In exchange for so many bad points, they joined the criollos and contributed their customs and ways of amusement.

There is a wish to recover the affective memory of this nook in Córdoba and newspapers and books from those days have appeared to remind everyone of the long counters in these venues mixed with the forages, the wine bottles, the horse tack and the food.

At present, a building from the late nineteenth century lends its old outdoor walls to Paseo de las Artes, which is made up by the Latin American Handicrafts Museum, the Municipal Historical Archives and the Handicrafts Market.

The street surrounding La Cañada is turned into a pedestrian promenade to put up the market where craftsmen offer their endless variety of absolutely handmade pieces. Material, color and technique are the basic principles of pieces that may not be found anywhere else.

Paseo de las Artes has been around for 30 years and it revolves around the corner of Achával Rodríguez Street. Everything from a lamp to a cutlery set just like the one grandma used to have may be found at the antiques market, located at Arrevol central alley.

We crossed the street and let ourselves be tempted by a traditional fernet and cola at one of the pubs that lie near the promenade, while other customers enjoyed a countryside snack.

At one of the corners on the same block, we visited the Latin American Handicrafts Museum, which gathers indigenous handicrafts made of wicker, pottery, Brazilian, Peruvian and Chilean carved wood, to name some. They are based on religious images and apparel, both traditional and modern.

Paseo de las Artes is a joyful space that usually includes street attractions such as circus, literature, music and all similar artistic expressions that complete popular handicrafts. We had the chance to watch a puppet show for children which delighted a great audience.

As we browsed used books, a craftsman read something to us: 'Paper boats do not sink, they sail around Güemes so that you and I can meet...”.

Latin American Handicrafts Museum
Address: Pasaje Revol y Belgrano - Barrio Güemes.
E-mail: museoibero@hotmail.com.ar
Te: 54 351 4334283