Few activities may be compared to mountain biking. One of the most interesting crossings to enjoy in Argentinian Patagonia is joining the Districts of El Bolsón and Esquel.
This outing implies a certain degree of difficulty, as 200 kilometers must be covered along a road that slopes up and down during a four-day tour. Therefore, we recommend that beginners take longer to complete this route and make more stops.
Before setting out, it is important to bear in mind that a good bicycle is necessary to venture oneself into this exploit. It is good to have a light bike, preferable made of aluminum. Bikers should wear appropriate clothes, carry a first-aid kit and everything necessary to face this thrilling adventure.
As far as food is concerned, there are several stores along the way that will ensure that bikers do not carry too much luggage. Weight must be distributed equally. In addition to this, a tool set, inflator and a spare tire must be packed.
First Day
On the first day, we crossed the border into the Province of Chubut. Our destination was Cholila, a small village lying 70 kilometers away from El Bolsón.
Everything starts at the main square in town. We went along the main avenue two blocks westwards up to Automóvil Club Argentino and then turned left into paved Route 40.
After a while, we crossed the beauty of El Hoyo, a very small hamlet resting on a valley teeming with farms. The most delicious jams in the country are made there. This is the center of fine fruit production in El Bolsón.
The access to Epuyén, a delightful site seen from the road, lies on the right, 38 kilometers away from El Bolsón. Having a lake of its own, this is a good option to spend the night. There are appropriate services for any cyclist (accommodation, camping site and convenience store).
There is a fork two kilometers away from Epuyén. We took left and accessed rubble Provincial Route 71. Cholila lies 30 kilometers ahead.
We soon abandoned the mountain range area to enter the steppe. The yellow hues turn exercise into real pleasure. Before reaching Cholila, a kind of ghost area is crossed. It is full of abandoned buildings. An interesting piece of information is that the three cabins that once lodged American bandit Butch Cassidy may be seen at this location.
We arrived in Cholila in the afternoon. The first thing we saw was the Automóvil Club Argentino. We turned left and covered 2 more kilometers to reach the center. This was our first stop. There are inns and camping sites, according to the taste of each visitor.
Second Day
We rose really early to see the surroundings of Cholila before heading for Los Alerces National Park. Fifty kilometers separated us from the Arrayanes River.
The first stretch consisted in joining Cholila and Lake Rivadavia. The road goes across eye-catching sceneries with abandoned dairy farms. The banks of the Carrileufú River lead visitors to Lake Rivadavia, a spectacular body of turquoise waters nestled by high rocky walls and vegetation.
The road accesses Los Alerces National Park, where an access fee must be paid. At this point, it became harder for us to pedal due to the constant slopes.
Halfway through the afternoon, we reached Lago Verde (Lake Green), which features several accesses to its shores, where cyclists may take a rest. They may also buy food at a local store.
The Arrayanes River lies just one kilometer away from this area. There is a primitive camping site by the water where most visitors spend the night. The Arrayanes River joins Lago Verde and Lake Futalaufquen, our next stop.
Third Day
We got up early and pedaled hard along 40 kilometers heading for Villa Futalaufquen. No sooner had we set out than we were already bordering the “Big Lake” (“futa” = “big”, “laufquen” = “lake”).
The rubble road mixes difficult uphill slopes and pleasant downhill rides. After 32 kilometers, at noon, we saw the pavement again, right before entering the village. It was a real paradise where we would spend the night and rest before facing the last day of this pedaling adventure.
Spending the afternoon at Futalaufquen is a real pleasure. There are several places to have tea and relax and a wide range of venues to spend the night.
Fourth Day
We rose early for the last part of the crossing. We left the village and took Route 71, now paved. We soon crossed the arch that bade us farewell as we left Los Alerces National Park and the mountain area behind. The road turned East again towards the steppe.
After 23 kilometers, we came to a fork. We turned right towards Trevelin, but we had to turn left where the road heads for Esquel.
Right there, a 5-kilometer rubble road going downhill made us gain speed. 50 kilometers per hour! It is a dangerous stretch. Once the extreme adrenaline was over and we were back on the pavement, Esquel lied closer ahead. Our adventure was about to end…