Navigating towards the Giants at El Chocón

An enigmatic wall rose in front of Villa El Chocón. It was easy to find Sergio Mangin and to make all the necessary arrangements to cross over there. We got our backpack ready with the essential items to have a picnic once we reached our destination.

The waters of Lake Ramos Mexía were dead calm. The water body looked enormous as we got to Boca del Sapo Bay –whose name stands for “Toad’s Mouth” in Spanish. A very big motorboat was ready to transport ten passengers. One at a time, we got on board and search for a seat.


Adventure Begins

Before we saw the rest of the scenery, we were already excited about the crossing. The weather was nice and there was no wind. We felt the boat slid on its “belly” softly on the sand and so we set off.

The houses on the shore looked higher on the steep rocks with reddish veins. Little by little, they disappeared from our sight and it seemed to us that the only area of the shore where there was a beach was the place from where we had left.

The old lighthouse and the rumor of the village faded away. As if it was a panoramic photograph, we watched the colorful hills that surround the valley. Level with the water, the rocks showed the marks of the water surface according to the season.

Before we crossed, we saw the area known as Los Acantilados (the Cliffs). High brownish rocks very eroded by the winds and the water would feature the typical steppe vegetation. We were at the Valley of Dinosaurs and the petrified forest, which used to shelter other life forms about 100 million years ago. The power station dam could be seen in the distance. Vital energy for many Argentinian cities is generated there.

Then, the boat headed for Los Gigantes (the Giants) as the engine let us hear the horse powers. Lake Ramos Mexía occupied our sight completely and at some point, we made silence. The engine was off so we could feel it more deeply. An excellent idea!

It was not necessary to cross the 24 kilometers of the lake’s width as our destination lied just 9 kilometers away. We felt the wind on our face and it was impossible to engage in conversation.


Everything at Reach

“These clayey plateaus we see in front used to be part of the same coastal massif from where we set out. Millions of years ago, a fault gave shape to this wide valley that was later flooded as a consequence of the dam constructions”, Sergio informed.
It was not until we were very close that we realized that the huge wall was accompanied by rocky islets. The waves would roar around them and the water foam rose before us.

We sailed around some rocks and suddenly, a sandy beach came into sight as if by magic. We landed on it and enjoyed the feeling on stepping on solid ground. We all got ready to taste our snack. The sunshine was strong and the walls themselves provided some shady spots for us. “What a great site you have chosen, Sergio!”, was the comment heard.

It was then that our guide answered some questions about the lifestyle of this village of dinosaurs and its activities. We learned how to measure the wind just by looking at the horizon or the black vultures’ flight. These birds soar when the air currents are favorable. He told us that the Limay River is a corridor for migratory birds.

As we returned to the boat, we discovered the holes, the balconies and the high plain area of the wall. It was immeasurable. It made us feel tiny standing by its side. We returned at a higher speed, already used to the hues of the water and the horizon.


Sunset Peace

We started to spot the reddish cliffs and the start of the Hidden Ravine, which may be reached both by water and by land. The lights of dusk made its balconies, holes and juts look different: they had a special attraction now.

Our outing was coming to an end and we sensed that Sergio had infected us with a dose of his passion for water activities. An Olympic sportsman and lover of the environment, he confessed that each outing on a boat is unique for him.

We beheld the low-level flight of the neotropic cormorant, a bird of slender silhouette that went past overhead in complete silence. It was the perfect finale for our sunny afternoon in the water. This experience would certainly remain in our memories for a long time.