The tour around towns with dirt roads reveals that they still preserve what is essential: the taste for natural things, life next to the creeks and the singing of birds.
As we left Villa de Merlo towards the north, Traslasierra Valley welcomed us as soon as we crossed Arroyo Piedra Blanca (White Rock Creek). From that point onwards, a sequence of towns offer their family production of olives and fruit, as well as tours around the mountain.
Cruz de Caña, Quebracho Ladeado and Las Chacras followed one another and upon reaching La Paz, its late nineteenth-century constructions spoke for themselves. Clean and neat, it is the head of the district where sulkies, small carts pulled by one horse, are still the most commonly used means of transportation.
At the municipal tourist office, we were told that the beautiful amphitheater in the main square is the venue where the anniversary of the district is celebrated every year early in February with the Empanada Festival. 'It is a traditional contest held every year in which local ladies put up their stalls and offer their specialties while a jury decides which one is the best' said Luciana.
La Paz and neighboring Loma Bola make up a corridor that leads to the mountain. It has become famous for its swim holes on mountain creeks and because the idea is to visit this place on foot. Countless trails lead to the hills and offer the chance to get deep into the area to catch unique panoramic views.
Farther ahead, Yacanto, San Javier and Villa Las Rosas face Mount Champaquí, the highest in the Province of Córdoba. That is why all hiking tours, horseback rides and crossings in the company of expert mountain guides are alluring in the summer season.
The town of San Javier emerged in the late nineteenth century, when the English arrived in the area to build the railway and settled down for good. We toured around the streets of San Javier and let ourselves be tempted by a countryside lunch in which we were served grilled goat accompanied by fresh salad grown in the area and freshly baked bread. After lunch, we sat under the vine in the yard of the old wooden house, isolated from the afternoon's heat.
In the last few years, the permanent dwellers of the foothills were joined by many newcomers who chose this site to start a new lifestyle in natural surroundings.
Towns like San Javier, La Paz or Yacanto have changed their ancient customs overnight: they have added certain comfort details and started ecological tourism. At the same time, people have once again turned to the over twenty medicinal and aromatic herbs that may be found in the area and are processed by hand, and to sowing the land and growing vines, fruit trees or olive trees for their own consumption.
The most enthusiastic visitors try to hit the summit of the highest mountain in the Province of Córdoba, but in general, those who succeed, do it to enjoy the quietness of the site, the hikes or just let the fresh air stroke their cheeks and invade their lungs.
The smell of a kind, well-disposed town where there is no urge and the feeling of having arrived at a good time is breathed at each corner.
The winding road finally led us to Mina Clavero, after having appreciated the value of mountain customs along with plenty of wishes to stay there for good, just like others did before us.
Contact
Municipality of La Paz
Te: 54 3544 496010
E-mail: info@lapaz-traslasierra.com.ar
Municipality of San Javier/Yacanto
Address: ruta provincial 14 s/n
Te: 54 3544 482077/041
E-mail: munisanjavieryacanto@vdolores.com.ar