Ancient Woodlands in the Pehuenia Circuit

Vast Argentinian Patagonia offers immeasurable tourist itineraries. Few of them left so deep a track in our travelers’ memory as the Pehuenia Circuit.

We drove away from Villa Pehuenia along the already dusty road bordering the shore of Lake Aluminé up to the junction with Provincial Route 23 southwards. Afterwards, at a crossroads we turned right into Provincial Route 11 and at that very spot, the romance with this circuit that led us straight to nature began.

The Pulmarí River escorted our slow advance up to Lake Los Giles, famous for bird-watching and fly-casting. Farther ahead, amidst hills, monkey-puzzle trees and cypresses, we found Lake Pulmarí. With low shores and crystal-clear waters that imitated the grey blue sky, some wild ducks and Magellan geese were swimming towards the rocky formations emerging in the middle of the lake. We took advantage of the quietness around to open our picnic basket and enjoy some sandwiches on the coast.

At Piedra Pintada Viewpoint, we climbed to the site where the old settlers had left their imprint carved on the rocks. From that point, we observed the lake, whose surface was dead calm. Silence was heartrending and only interrupted by the quacking or honking of the birds.

Lanín National Park welcomed us with its classic wooden sign and neat trails. Once there, we had a very relaxed chat with the local park ranger.

‘Many visitors pass by and just stop for a while to contemplate this space. But it is good to spend a while longer and tour the facilities so as to understand the cycles of nature. The Mapuche community has organized an entertaining interpretative trail that shows their vision of life and its elements’, said the park ranger proudly.

Many meltdown creeks come from the heights and add vitality and sound to the area. Fly fishing is allowed and regulated. Hiking tours to three attractive cascades complete the tour.

We recognized some native trees, especially the monkey-puzzle trees. Some of these specimens are ancient, huge and feature some fallen branches as a result of the passing of time. Others look younger, shinier and have very hard horizontal branches. We learned that the pine nut is the fruit of these trees. It is a kind of almond that is toasted or boiled and that has been the staple food of the Mapuche people in this area of the mountain range for years.

Beyond Lake Ñorquinco, the monkey-puzzle tree woods become thicker with well defined shapes cut out on the ridges of the hills. We were in front of imposing rocky formations on Mount Impodi and Cresta de Gallo (Rooster Comb) Wall.

Close to Lake Moquehue, we felt man’s presence once again due to the great number of villas, tourist cabins and stores by the road. The circuit was coming to an end.

Moquehue gave us a new surprise: Las Araucarias theme park. For an hour, a three-kilometer tour across the forest unveils the mysteries of this ancient tree species.

Villa Pehuenia welcomed us with its shores and peninsulas on Lake Aluminé. The day was ending and we had the feeling of having traveled one of the most delightful roads in the region. Each of us succeeded in letting ourselves by carried away by the magic of nature and enjoying it our own way.